# Rubik's Brand 3x3x3 Modding/Lubing



## kunparekh18 (Jan 5, 2013)

Okay guys, so after a week of attempting at making my Rubik's faster, here is how I finally did it! 

*End result - *

-Clicky (somewhat like a Zhanchi) 
-friction like a Guhong (smooth, but only ifyou hold the cube loosely)
-It is not as soft as a Guhong
-Locks up less frequently, like once per 10-15 turns
-Never pops. It wouldn't pop even if I purposely wanted it to.
-Corner cuts upto 30 degrees!   
-Very Very Noisy, use earplugs when solving. 

*Method:*

What I basically did is breaking it in, sanding it and then lubing.

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In detail:

*Step 1: Breaking The Cube In*

-Continuously scramble it, ex. when watching TV
-Solve it over and over. Doing it for like 2 weeks did the trick for me.

However, if you want to break it in to extreme levels, unlike me, follow the video tutorial below.



Spoiler: Video Tutorial of Breaking in by PestVic



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPCPWLCNB4I



If you have a drill, and want to break your cube in to INSANE levels, do this. 



Spoiler: Video Tutorial of Breaking in by ProjectBulbasaur



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1kIBvAnLevo



Alternatively, you could follow Thrawst's tut here:



Spoiler: Video Tutorial of Breaking in by Thrawst



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YTDblHV-NMU



Want to play with fire? Try this:



Spoiler: Breaking in with Fire by Thrawst



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_TgzrKbturg



------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

*Step 2: Sanding The Cube*

See the video:



Spoiler: Video Tutorial of Sanding by Arvindtat



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mc8ijBeFoxQ



Use 100 or 120 grit sandpaper. Anything rougher will ruin your cube.
I sanded only the centers because I'm a lazy guy, but you can do every piece like he says.
Sanding every piece may also give some reverse corner cutting, upto 5 degrees, but it is not that much big of an advantage.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

*Step 3: Lubing*



Spoiler: The Lubricant



The lube I used was:

Livon Silky Potion: Detangling Hair Fluid! It was recommended by other Chennai cubers.







It contains:

Cycolpentasiloxane, Cyclotetrasiloxane, Dimethiconol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Mineral Oil. 

-No petroleum distillates. So, I don't believe it'll harm the cube.
-Cyclopentasiloxane and Cyclotetrasiloxane are compounds found in silicone-based lubricants, so this has same action as CRC.
-See here for details: 

http://www.speedsolving.com/forum/s...Modding-Lubing&p=815570&viewfull=1#post815570





Spoiler: Application



Just like this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UXQ-VGhsUKw

Except that get a drop of Livon on your fingers and rub around center and core joint for all 6.
But, if you have a dispenser tip like Lubix, please use that to apply Livon as it comes into direct contact with the center-and-core joint, rather than rubbing Livon around the joint.

Livon gives a somewhat cold feel to your cube. You've got a "cool" cube now!

Relube whenever cube feels scratchy.



------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

*Step 4: Post-Mod*



Spoiler: Post-Mod Video by kunparekh18 (me :D)



video coming soon



Do step 1 (of the video) immediately after the mod, and do step 2 everytime your cube feels scratchy/rough. Once in a week is recommended for consistent performance of the cube.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

*Notes:*
I did not follow PestVic's tutorial, and didn't sand all the cubies in Arvind's mod. I just sanded the centers. I believe that doing both of these will reduce lock-ups (see end results section at beginning of post) and give corner cutting upto 45 DEGREES like a Zhanchi! (have not tried, but arvindtat says so). If anyone can confirm it will be very useful.

Also, I haven't tried lubes like Lubix, Traxxas, CRC, Maru, etc. So I can't confirm if these will work.

The cube is at competition level. Heck, I don't even need a Zhanchi now!!!
Thanks to everyone who helped me throughout the thread. I hope this thread helps someone in the future.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Spoiler: Original Post



I want to make my storebought Rubk's cube fast, with some corner cutting and less friction while turning. I have ordered a Zhanchi but need something else to satisfy myself while it comes.

I searched the forums, and found some info here and there, but what I need is a total start-to-end guide/instructable of the recommended procedure to do this.

Thanks in advance. I hope this thread may come of use to other users who need help with this.

EDIT: Just thought, would Vaseline work?


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## jonlin (Jan 5, 2013)

^ to edit:
Yes, but clean it out.


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## kunparekh18 (Jan 5, 2013)

I've heard it melts the plastic. Isn't that harmful to the cube?


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## Kattenvriendin (Jan 5, 2013)

Vaseline is nono.

If you have a store around that sells remote controlled cars and such, they might have differential oil. Much better


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## kunparekh18 (Jan 5, 2013)

I think I have that differential oil lying around, so is there any specific way I should apply it to the cube?


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## Kattenvriendin (Jan 5, 2013)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s4paID_54lQ

this is how I do it.

I use two different kinds of oil though, core gets thicker oil than the cubies, but this youtube is the basics at least of how to lube 

Start at 4:18 basically.

But wait because I have NO idea if a Rubiks can be taken apart as easily as other brands, but lubing best way is that.


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## kunparekh18 (Jan 5, 2013)

I saw that video yesterday, and I'm sorry to say that the Rubik's brand doesn't come apart that easily, especially the centre caps. There's no way the centre caps would come off in a Rubik's brand (or at least my cube, which is legit).


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## arvind1999 (Jan 5, 2013)

Try this.


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## kunparekh18 (Jan 5, 2013)

I just saw that, will try it tomorrow morning. Will let you know the results. Do I have to regularly sand it?


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## arvind1999 (Jan 5, 2013)

Sand once and do all of those, if you have time.
Keep lubing regularly.


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## kunparekh18 (Jan 5, 2013)

Lubing with what? What do you recommend? I have seen multiple answers:

-Differential Oil
-Vaseline
-Silicone Lubricant like CRC (which is no available in India)
-Graphite Powder (lol, some of my friends do do this, although I haven't tested this out for myself)

Also, can I do any screw adjustments/tensioning? It will be tough to do because the center caps don't come off that easily, but if they do, can I try it?


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## arvind1999 (Jan 5, 2013)

kunparekh18 said:


> Lubing with what? What do you recommend? I have seen multiple answers:
> 
> -Differential Oil
> -Vaseline
> ...



Differential oil if you can get it.


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## Kattenvriendin (Jan 5, 2013)

I have posted a link to a US seller of differential oil (Traxxas) elsewhere (got it: http://stores.ebay.com/TOADZ-RC/TRAXXAS-/_i.html?_nkw=diff+oil).

Got here in a week, so not bad at all.


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## kunparekh18 (Jan 5, 2013)

Kattenvriendin said:


> I have posted a link to a US seller of differential oil (Traxxas) elsewhere (got it: http://stores.ebay.com/TOADZ-RC/TRAXXAS-/_i.html?_nkw=diff+oil).
> 
> Got here in a week, so not bad at all.



Ships worldwide, but that excludes India  Will try a local brand instead.


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## arvind1999 (Jan 5, 2013)

kunparekh18 said:


> Ships worldwide, but that excludes India  Will try a local brand instead.



You can order Calvin's Lube from here if you are planning to buy a DaYan Cube.


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## mattch00 (Jan 5, 2013)

I've heard Lubix is good, but then this morning I had an idea. Butter. I know it sounds weird, but think about it you use it to lubricate the pan in baking and cooking, so it must have some lubrication qualities.


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## kunparekh18 (Jan 5, 2013)

Yes, I will buy a Dayan Cube, but first I will make the Rubik's faster. Will the Calvin work on it? 

Also, 


Spoiler: About prices



Too costly! 230 for 2ml? That's ridiculous!


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## arvind1999 (Jan 5, 2013)

kunparekh18 said:


> Yes, I will buy a Dayan Cube, but first I will make the Rubik's faster. Will the Calvin work on it?
> 
> Also,
> 
> ...



Its just like lubix! Its really worth it.
It will surely work on a DaYan. But, I wouldn't waste it on a Rubik's brand.


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## kunparekh18 (Jan 5, 2013)

Okay, but right now I'll focus on my Rubik's. So, sandpaper with differential oil (if I can find it) is what I'll finally go with. Any other helpful ideas?


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## kunparekh18 (Jan 6, 2013)

How about breaking in? Will that work?

Also, does anyone else support the "butter" idea?


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## panyan (Jan 6, 2013)

kunparekh18 said:


> Also, does anyone else support the "butter" idea?



no.


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## mark49152 (Jan 6, 2013)

kunparekh18 said:


> Also, does anyone else support the "butter" idea?


I can imagine it would smell dreadful after a while.


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## kunparekh18 (Jan 6, 2013)

mark49152 said:


> I can imagine it would smell dreadful after a while.



Yeah, lol you're right. I'll try

- Breaking in
- Sanding
- Lubing

In that order. I'll post the results.


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## Kattenvriendin (Jan 6, 2013)

Better order:

sanding, lubing, breaking in.


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## mark49152 (Jan 6, 2013)

Kattenvriendin said:


> Better order:
> 
> sanding, lubing, breaking in.



Yeah I got a couple of new cubes recently and was wondering about this. What's your logic to this order? I concluded to break in first, then sand (including anything obviously starting to be worn by breaking in) then lube last on the basis that lubing will reduce friction and making breaking in less effective.


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## Kattenvriendin (Jan 6, 2013)

my logic is that you are not doing things twice.

If you break it in first and then start sanding you could have done the breaking in much faster by the sanding.

If you break it in, then lube it, and then want to sand you will have to clean the innards before you do so.

You have the cube for a little while now, I am sure you used it, that should be plenty to see where things can have improvement. The rest of how to mod is basically looking and thinking 

Maybe there are youtube vids out there on modding a rubik's brand cube, but I for one am not doing the breaking in before the sanding, after is much more effective and less time consuming


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## kunparekh18 (Jan 6, 2013)

Will this procedure also reduce lock-ups?


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## Kattenvriendin (Jan 6, 2013)

I don't know how much it will reduce lockups. I have never modded a Rubik.


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## kunparekh18 (Jan 6, 2013)

I see. I doubt I can find silicone based lubricants like CRC/Traxxas/Lubix here, so I'll have to search for some alternatives. I'll try looking for differential oil in a car garage.


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## Zeotor (Jan 6, 2013)

Kattenvriendin said:


> Better order:
> 
> sanding, lubing, breaking in.





kunparekh18 said:


> I'll try
> 
> - Breaking in
> - Sanding
> - Lubing



I think that the order should be: sanding, breaking in, lubricating.

Here's my logic. Like mark49152 said, "lubing will reduce friction and making breaking in less effective." So, break it in before lubricating. As for sanding first, breaking it in will smooth the plastic somewhat. You want to smooth the rough/recently sanded areas. I don't think that lubricating rough/recently sanded pieces, then using the cube, will allow them to get much smoother.

So, sand the cube then break it in through repeated solves. Then lubricate it later.

By the way, I think that you should clean the cube out before lubricating it.


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## mark49152 (Jan 6, 2013)

Kattenvriendin said:


> If you break it in first and then start sanding you could have done the breaking in much faster by the sanding.



I guess it depends what you mean by breaking in and what you want to achieve by modding. What I want to achieve is to make the cube smoother and quieter and perhaps reduce lock-ups and glitches, but generally I'm pretty conservative and only want to remove the minimum amount of material necessary so as to not make the cube unstable. By "breaking in", I mean an hour or two of random scrambling while watching TV, to loosen up a new cube and give it a little wear. Then when you take it apart you can see where the pieces have been scraping, or which burrs have been catching, or where the cube dust is starting to accumulate, etc., and you can see where best to sand to smooth things off.

There are several videos on modding and much of the advice makes sense, but I'm a little reluctant to just start sanding things that other people sanded without at least investigating for myself what's scraping what inside the cube when it moves. Plus deciding your own improvements is part of the fun!


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## Kattenvriendin (Jan 6, 2013)

That is exactly how I modded my mf8/dayan 4x4. Without the breaking in part that is. I simply turned and looked to see what was catching, and when that was pretty much removed I went for a bit better corner cutting. Not much, because too much destabilizes the cube  YOu can always go back in and sand some more, you cannot put it back on.

Well, you can.. with milliput, but it's a pain in the tush to use on small areas without the right tools.. I used it to create four inner pieces of my ss6x6 which had them (gasp!) missing.


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## kunparekh18 (Jan 8, 2013)

The speedsolving Wiki says that for Rubik's brand cubes, use Vaseline to ease breaking in, clean it after a month and then use a silicone lubricant. One question : is sanding necessary after this procedure? 

Sent from my A75 using Tapatalk 2


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## Isaac Paurus (Jan 8, 2013)

kunparekh18 said:


> The speedsolving Wiki says that for Rubik's brand cubes, use Vaseline to ease breaking in, clean it after a month and then use a silicone lubricant. One question : is sanding necessary after this procedure?
> 
> Sent from my A75 using Tapatalk 2


no, not necessary, but recomended. i would do what the wiki says, use some CRC spray in it, or jigaloo, or something like that, or something even better like lubix. just break in the cube ALOT and if you want better performance, you could sand it down a little.


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## sneaklyfox (Jan 8, 2013)

Why bother with all this? By the time you finish sanding it, breaking it in, and lubing it, your Zhanchi would have arrived.


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## kunparekh18 (Jan 8, 2013)

sneaklyfox said:


> Why bother with all this? By the time you finish sanding it, breaking it in, and lubing it, your Zhanchi would have arrived.



My 9 year old brother is interested in cubing like me, so want to give him a better cube for starters.

@Isaac final question :

CRC or Traxxas or Jigaloo? 

Sent from my A75 using Tapatalk 2


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## panyan (Jan 8, 2013)

sneaklyfox said:


> Why bother with all this? By the time you finish sanding it, breaking it in, and lubing it, your Zhanchi would have arrived.



Because doing things for yourself is more noble, more reputable, more educational


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## TimMc (Jan 8, 2013)

Lubricant: CRC808 or H4000.
Pull the cube a part: Turn the top layer 45 degrees, use the handle of a fork or something to gently pop the edge piece out.
Clean the cube: Use a dry rag or some paper towels to clean every piece.
Lubricate the pieces: Arrange all the pieces on a paper towel so that the black of each piece is facing upward (stickers facing down). Hold the silicone spray about 7cm away and spray all the pieces for about 3 seconds in total (move your hand across with the can to get all the pieces). Use a paper towel to gently wipe off most of the lubricant (all the pieces should look shiny);
Assemble the cube and solve it;
Loosen the cube: Perform U' but turn it about 30 degrees instead of 90. Hold the upper layer in this position with your left hand. Try to perform R2' with your right hand. This should put force on the core and loosen the cube a bit. Repeat for each face several times.
Solve the cube heaps of times and then repeat the above process a few more times.

Tim.


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## kunparekh18 (Jan 8, 2013)

panyan said:


> Because doing things for yourself is more noble, more reputable, more educational



Another reason for this experiment of mine.



TimMc said:


> Lubricant: CRC808 or H4000.
> Pull the cube a part: Turn the top layer 45 degrees, use the handle of a fork or something to gently pop the edge piece out.
> Clean the cube: Use a dry rag or some paper towels to clean every piece.
> Lubricate the pieces: Arrange all the pieces on a paper towel so that the black of each piece is facing upward (stickers facing down). Hold the silicone spray about 7cm away and spray all the pieces for about 3 seconds in total (move your hand across with the can to get all the pieces). Use a paper towel to gently wipe off most of the lubricant (all the pieces should look shiny);
> ...



Thanks a lot! That really helped. Now I have to find someplace that sells CRC. Does anyone in India have any idea? 

Sent from my A75 using Tapatalk 2


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## TimMc (Jan 8, 2013)

kunparekh18 said:


> Thanks a lot! That really helped. Now I have to find someplace that sells CRC. Does anyone in India have any idea?



CRC make a lot of different products. You may want to search for CRC808 specifically. Some of their other products may damage your cube.

Check Google for images. Usually they're sold in: automotive stores, electronic stores, hardware stores... I'm not sure about local stores there sorry.

You might want to try Traxxas diff oil instead (toy car shops, hobby shops). It's probably cheaper and better.

Tim.


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## kunparekh18 (Jan 8, 2013)

TimMc said:


> CRC make a lot of different products. You may want to search for CRC808 specifically. Some of their other products may damage your cube.
> 
> Check Google for images. Usually they're sold in: automotive stores, electronic stores, hardware stores... I'm not sure about local stores there sorry.
> 
> ...



Hmmm. I'll try looking for CRC808 or Traxxas. I've heard 50k is best. Also, I believe traxxas is oil rather than spray, so is the application like Lubix? Also, all the information about traxxas I've heard is after it being used on cubes like Zhanchis. Are you sure its good for Rubik's brand cubes? 

Sent from my A75 using Tapatalk 2


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## arvind1999 (Jan 8, 2013)

kunparekh18 said:


> Hmmm. I'll try looking for CRC808 or Traxxas. I've heard 50k is best. Also, I believe traxxas is oil rather than spray, so is the application like Lubix? Also, all the information about traxxas I've heard is after it being used on cubes like Zhanchis. Are you sure its good for Rubik's brand cubes?
> 
> Sent from my A75 using Tapatalk 2



Its absolutely fine if you use it on a rubik's brand
But never ever use CRC on the Zhanchi.


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## kunparekh18 (Jan 8, 2013)

arvind1999 said:


> Its absolutely fine if you use it on a rubik's brand
> But never ever use CRC on the Zhanchi.



Okay, so traxxas is my best bet coz it may work on a Rubik's brand, and does work on a Zhanchi which I'm going to get. Am I right? 

Sent from my A75 using Tapatalk 2


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## arvind1999 (Jan 8, 2013)

kunparekh18 said:


> Okay, so traxxas is my best bet coz it may work on a Rubik's brand, and does work on a Zhanchi which I'm going to get. Am I right?
> 
> Sent from my A75 using Tapatalk 2



Yup. You should also look at Calvin's Lube.
Its really good, I say.


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## kunparekh18 (Jan 8, 2013)

I might see into calvins, but its too costly! 340 rs. for 5ml (6.5$). But, Maru sells at 115 rs. (2.5$) for 10ml. How is that? 

Sent from my A75 using Tapatalk 2


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## Genesis (Jan 8, 2013)

kunparekh18 said:


> I might see into calvins, but its too costly! 340 rs. for 5ml (6.5$). But, Maru sells at 115 rs. (2.5$) for 10ml. How is that?
> 
> Sent from my A75 using Tapatalk 2


You need more lube per cube for the maru lube


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## arvind1999 (Jan 8, 2013)

kunparekh18 said:


> I might see into calvins, but its too costly! 340 rs. for 5ml (6.5$). But, Maru sells at 115 rs. (2.5$) for 10ml. How is that?
> 
> Sent from my A75 using Tapatalk 2



Maru is fine. But Calvin's Lube is a lot lot better.
You won't regret buying Calvin's Lube.




Genesis said:


> You need more lube per cube for the maru lube



Not really. Two to three drops of Maru is enough to make the cube fast.
If you put in more, your cube will become REALLY gummy.


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## Isaac Paurus (Jan 8, 2013)

kunparekh18 said:


> My 9 year old brother is interested in cubing like me, so want to give him a better cube for starters.
> 
> @Isaac final question :
> 
> ...



i would recommend traxxas the most out of those three.


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## mark49152 (Jan 8, 2013)

arvind1999 said:


> Traxxas is absolutely fine if you use it on a rubik's brand
> But never ever use CRC on the Zhanchi.



Traxxas is great in my Rubik's but since it's tight it gets gummy easily. Best solution I've found is to overlube it, work it round, then dismantle and wipe pieces with a paper towel so that only a slight film of lube remains. My Rubik's never felt better tho it still won't cut dem corners...


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## kunparekh18 (Jan 9, 2013)

mark49152 said:


> Traxxas is great in my Rubik's but since it's tight it gets gummy easily. Best solution I've found is to overlube it, work it round, then dismantle and wipe pieces with a paper towel so that only a slight film of lube remains. My Rubik's never felt better tho it still won't cut dem corners...



How much degrees does it cut? 30° is enough for me. Also, what do you mean by "gummy"? I've never experienced it... Is it a good feel? 

Sent from my A75 using Tapatalk 2


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## mark49152 (Jan 9, 2013)

kunparekh18 said:


> How much degrees does it cut? 30° is enough for me. Also, what do you mean by "gummy"? I've never experienced it... Is it a good feel?


Maybe about 15-20 degrees but varies between sides. I think more drastic modding would be needed for anything more. I only really use the Rubiks when I want to practise with greater turning accuracy enforced 

Gummy is not a good feel. The cube feels sticky with increased friction, like if you'd put syrup in it instead of lube.


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## tengurocks (Jan 9, 2013)

mark49152 said:


> Maybe about 15-20 degrees but varies between sides. I think more drastic modding would be needed for anything more. I only really use the Rubiks when I want to practise with greater turning accuracy enforced
> 
> Gummy is not a good feel. The cube feels sticky with increased friction, like if you'd put syrup in it instead of lube.


Some people like the gummy feel to


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## arvind1999 (Jan 9, 2013)

kunparekh18 said:


> How much degrees does it cut? 30° is enough for me. Also, what do you mean by "gummy"? I've never experienced it... Is it a good feel?
> 
> Sent from my A75 using Tapatalk 2



Gummy. A gummy feel is like having put butter in the cube.
Too smooth and sticky.


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## balloon6610 (Jan 9, 2013)

If you like smooth cubes
Gummy : Good feel
Too Gummy : Bad feel
(Sorry for my bad english)


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## kunparekh18 (Jan 9, 2013)

I see ... I'll go through the Wiki method, with sanding between vaseline-breaking and lubing with CRC808/Traxxas.

Sent from my A75 using Tapatalk 2


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## mark49152 (Jan 10, 2013)

balloon6610 said:


> If you like smooth cubes
> Gummy : Good feel
> Too Gummy : Bad feel
> (Sorry for my bad english)


Kunparekh18 asked me what I meant by "gummy" in my post above. So just to be clear, I meant BAD gummy.


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## kunparekh18 (Jan 13, 2013)

Added guide to post #1, please criticize/comment !


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## arvind1999 (Jan 13, 2013)

Livon is pretty good!
Used it on my Zhanchi too until I got Maru and Calvin's.
It works really well.
I can assure you it won't do any damage.


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## kunparekh18 (Jan 13, 2013)

arvind1999 said:


> Livon is pretty good!
> Used it on my Zhanchi too until I got Maru and Calvin's.
> It works really well.
> I can assure you it won't do any damage.



Awesome! So +1 for Livon 

Can anyone tell how long it takes for Livon to stop? When is relubing required??

Sent from my A75 using Tapatalk 2


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## arvind1999 (Jan 13, 2013)

kunparekh18 said:


> Can anyone tell how long it takes for Livon to stop? When is relubing required??
> 
> Sent from my A75 using Tapatalk 2



Lube when your cube feels scratchy again.


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## kunparekh18 (Jan 13, 2013)

I believe the cyclosiloxane compounds in Livon are consisted of silicone (from the name), thus lubing the cube. Am I right? 

Sent from my A75 using Tapatalk 2


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## arvind1999 (Jan 13, 2013)

kunparekh18 said:


> I believe the cyclosiloxane compounds in Livon are consisted of silicone (from the name), thus lubing the cube. Am I right?
> 
> Sent from my A75 using Tapatalk 2



I don't like chemistry.


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## kunparekh18 (Jan 13, 2013)

I love Chem, but what can a high school 1st year student do? 

Sent from my A75 using Tapatalk 2


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## arvind1999 (Jan 13, 2013)

kunparekh18 said:


> I love Chem, but what can a high school 1st year student do?
> 
> Sent from my A75 using Tapatalk 2



Haha yeah. But we cannot actually interpret from the name without researching.


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## kunparekh18 (Jan 13, 2013)

Got this:



> Decamethyl*cyclopentasiloxane* (D5) is a *silicone fluid* commonly used in cosmetics such as deodorants, sunblocks, hair sprays and skin care products. It is becoming more common in hair conditioners, as *it makes the hair easier to brush without breakage*. It is also used *as part of silicone based personal lubricants.*




Explains why Livon lubricates the cube and is used as detangling hair fluid.







-Cyclic structure explains "cyclo"
-5 silicon atoms explain "penta"
-Presence of silicon and oxygen atoms bonded together explain "siloxane". If it was only silicon, I think it would be "silicane" or something like that.

Same for cyclotetrasiloxane.


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## arvind1999 (Jan 13, 2013)

kunparekh18 said:


> Got this:
> 
> [/COLOR]
> 
> ...



Oh wow! Then its silicon!


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## kunparekh18 (Jan 17, 2013)

Arvind1999 claims that his Rubik's brand does reverse corner cutting with some modding. I will update this thread when he posts the video.


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## arvind1999 (Jan 17, 2013)

kunparekh18 said:


> Arvind1999 claims that his Rubik's brand does reverse corner cutting with some modding. I will update this thread when he posts the video.



You want the video proof?


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## kunparekh18 (Jan 17, 2013)

I saw the proof, all I want now is the procedure video 

Sent from my A75 using Tapatalk 2


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## Bioxed (Feb 2, 2013)

*All modding for the original rubik's brand 3x3x3 cube AKA.Rubik's cube jumbo*

Here you post any sort of modding if you have a cube like this:


Spoiler: Image


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## Bioxed (Feb 2, 2013)

First of all,I find that ANY cube can be great if it's tensioned right + if its lubed you can fly.
With this cube its very hard to remove the caps. There aren't really any videos on modding this cube.
If you do remove the caps(it is possible) you will find that there aren't screws,there are rivets.
You can't really drill through them so you just must pull them out.
PestVic has made a good video about this.
I removed the center pieces my self but now I'm stuck with a core.You can try drilling out the metal but trust me,its REALLY hard. Better buy a new core or if you can buy a dollar rubiks cube and just take the core(99% of dollar cubes have screws so you will be able to remove the core).
Then you can replace the core and tension the cube.


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## kunparekh18 (Feb 2, 2013)

^Thanks, I'll add the information in my Mod thread which I linked above.


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## Bioxed (Feb 2, 2013)

Okay,tryed getting the caps off,nothing worked so I used a dremel and cut throught the center piece. I found that there are caps but they ARE glued like some people said.I ruined a center piece for nothing. Yes there is a rivet in there. I guess you can use a dremel and just cut in every center piece but theres not point.
With the core...its almost literlly impossible to drill through. I couldn't do it not a single chance.
I know its fun modding and you wanna have a good cube and you payed a lot of money for an original rubiks brand cube but just get a dayan something.
I paied my rubiks brand 20 dollars. And a zhanchi is 7 dollars.


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## Bioxed (Feb 2, 2013)

I might still try to destroy all the center pieces in oder to get the screws in and get a core from a dollar store rubiks cube but I 100% Order a dayan something.


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## kunparekh18 (Feb 2, 2013)

Here in India a Rubik's costs 6.5$ while the cheapest Dayan is for 10$. That's why I mainly created this thread. 

I wouldn't mess with the centers if I were you. I would just round off the corners of the centers with a dremel/sandpaper.


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## PeelingStickers (Feb 2, 2013)

Bioxed said:


> Okay,tryed getting the caps off,nothing worked so I used a dremel and cut throught the center piece. I found that there are caps but they ARE glued like some people said.I ruined a center piece for nothing. Yes there is a rivet in there. I guess you can use a dremel and just cut in every center piece but theres not point.
> With the core...its almost literlly impossible to drill through. I couldn't do it not a single chance.
> I know its fun modding and you wanna have a good cube and you payed a lot of money for an original rubiks brand cube but just get a dayan something.
> I paied my rubiks brand 20 dollars. And a zhanchi is 7 dollars.



yeah, but theres some fun in turning the crappiest cube out there into a decent speedcube, even if it's not as good as a dayan, plus you can say YOU made it


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## Zelda (Feb 3, 2013)

What if you got out a dermel, and use that to sand everything like crazy? Because if you can get the surfaces from touching, it could become a very fast cube.


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## kunparekh18 (Feb 3, 2013)

Zelda said:


> What if you got out a dermel, and use that to sand everything like crazy? Because if you can get the surfaces from touching, it could become a very fast cube.



My friend Mukunth, a fellow Chennai cuber has also done what you have described. I haven't actually seen the cube, but he claims that it is very fast. I'll make a review when I get to solve it. I've given my Rubik's to him for dremelling it.


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## Zelda (Feb 3, 2013)

Damn, I need to find a dermel now >.>


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## Bioxed (Feb 3, 2013)

Replacing rivets with screws is NOTHING to sanding.


Okay if you wanna take a dremel and cut to get to the caps and all don't cut anywhere! I measuerd and it turned out the cap is 0,3mm - 0,4mm in height so measuer that mark it and then cut. Dont cut anywhere because you will need to get epoxy sculpt and all to fix the broken plastic which is hard.


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## kunparekh18 (Feb 3, 2013)

^Actually, I don't understand why the center caps have to be taken off in the first place.


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## Bioxed (Feb 3, 2013)

Excuse me?
Its because you have rivites on ur cube insted of screws like on any other normal cube. Its because you can change the rivets into screws and change the tension.
Its because just by changing the rivets for screws is at least 100 times better then doing any of the sanding.Its because if you change the rivets for screws and sand it like in the videos you will have so good cube it will make you wanna cry of happines.


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## kunparekh18 (Feb 3, 2013)

I don't think all that pain is necessary. Just dremelling/sanding is enough. Messing with the centers can lead to permanent damage of your cube. I am going with a risk-free method because I know how costly these Rubik's brands are. Also, I don't think anyone would be willing to replace rivets with screws just to change the tension.

I want you to prove me wrong by creating a video of how this is done/ and the end result.


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## Bioxed (Feb 3, 2013)

Ok.


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## Bioxed (Feb 3, 2013)

Here.


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