# Improving Rubik's store bought cube



## leden (Jan 6, 2008)

I have Rubik's store bought cube and want to improve the smoothness. 
Maybe I will sound strange, but *what exactly is breaking in*? Does it mean disassembling the cube then reassambling or...? If yes how that affects the smoothness of turns and/or cutting corners? How much would this help?
I am afraid to sand my cube because I'm not sure whether it should be of any help at all.
Silicone lubricants are currently out of option because I live in Europe, Croatia (where it is hard to find any silicone lubricant, Rubik's related products) unless you can tell me some online store which ships CRC silicone spray Worldwide for no more than $15. 

P.S.: I posses 2 different kinds of no-name chinese cubes, I used sew machine oil on one (springless one) and it turns quite well but does not cut corners at all.


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## TimMc (Jan 6, 2008)

It just means to use it regularly extensively over a short period. You can artificially break it in by sanding down the inside faces of the cubies and using silicone spray or you can just solve the cube a few hundred times until the inside becomes smooth and reaches a point that you're happy with.

Tim.


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## sahunhong (Jan 6, 2008)

breaking in means solving it a LOT 

silicone lubes are out of option too for me! actually i found that a LITTLE bit of wd40 helps cut corners.. my brother wd40d his 25th anniversary (yes, i know) and it totally PWNS my cube ;(

you should sand it with those emery boards women file nails with.

good luck.


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## andrewvo1324 (Jan 6, 2008)

Get a super fine File and file all sides of the pieces.


Then Silicone it


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## MusicCube (Jan 7, 2008)

Well I use JigALoo for a lubricant. I also have real silicone though. Jigaloo makes the peices soft, but doesn't eat them. That way when you're solving it it wears down the 'tough' spots.


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## darkzelkova (Jan 7, 2008)

Basically everything has been said... but ah well. I usually sand my pieces down (ALL bits I can see (except of course stickers) including the core) with some rough sandpaper, then go over it after with some finer sandpaper to make it look not so ugly. After that, I clean and lube it. Then I re-lube it. I use MotoMaster Silicone Lube, from Canadian Tire. If that helps at all lol.


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## Harris Chan (Jan 7, 2008)

I'd say Jig A Loo is faster, compare to Motomaster (that's the first lube I had). Motomaster is good, but you need to really let it sit for a while. Plus I don't really like the smell of it lol. 

PS may be there's a certain area that you sand it more? Some areas that would technically be worn down with "natural cubing"? May be the curved areas of the edge?


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## roboboy (Jan 8, 2008)

I've used one of my store bought rubik's until it performs like a loose-ish DIY, very nice feel, but pops alot for beginners. Breaking in is just the sanding down of the insides as you use it, not much need to force it imo it happens naturally.


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## darkzelkova (Jan 8, 2008)

I usually sand everything, but it helps if you can see your lube (mine makes a whitish dust) and you can see where it gets really clear (no dust), thats where you should sand most.


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## icke (Jan 10, 2008)

if you brake in your cube that means that you have to use him a lot. the springs will widen and makes the cube looser. my 25th cube got loose only by cubing and lubing him. i got another cube which was really tight. i used same plastic knifes. put them between the cubes and let them there over night. if you have a diy cube you can change the thigtniss by unscrewing the screws in the centerpices. i dont think that you can use a cube which is changed like that in competition. dont know if you intend to go to one but just in case


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## tegalogic (Jan 10, 2008)

I'm pretty sure DIY cubes are allowed... otherwise people wouldn't get that fast.


WCA regulations said:


> 3i)	No modifications are allowed that enhance the basic concept of a puzzle. Some examples of enhancing the basic concept are: new moves are possible, normal moves are impossible, more colours/pieces are visible, moves are done automatically, more or other solved states.


It's solved just the same as a normal cube, so it's OK.


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## darkzelkova (Jan 10, 2008)

Thats why a transparent cube isn't allowed. It would be *technically* possible to look through it and see other colors. But you can loosen and lube it as much as you want.


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## coopersacatfilms (Apr 18, 2008)

you can try cubelube.com they have a silicone that comes in a syringe bottle and it is very cheap.


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## *LukeMayn* (Apr 18, 2008)

IMO the best type of lube is CRC Silicon. Muhahahaha finally a good cubing related product sold in New Zealand


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## Swordsman Kirby (Apr 19, 2008)

icke said:


> if you brake in your cube that means that you have to use him a lot. the springs will widen and makes the cube looser. my 25th cube got loose only by cubing and lubing him. i got another cube which was really tight. i used same plastic knifes. put them between the cubes and let them there over night. if you have a diy cube you can change the thigtniss by unscrewing the screws in the centerpices. i dont think that you can use a cube which is changed like that in competition. dont know if you intend to go to one but just in case



I named my cube "Alice."

But really, please stop necro-ing!


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## fanwuq (Apr 19, 2008)

Harris Chan said:


> I'd say Jig A Loo is faster, compare to Motomaster (that's the first lube I had). Motomaster is good, but you need to really let it sit for a while. Plus I don't really like the smell of it lol.
> 
> PS may be there's a certain area that you sand it more? Some areas that would technically be worn down with "natural cubing"? May be the curved areas of the edge?



what is recommended? this jig a loo or CRC silicone spray?

I've seen some silicone sprays, but they all contain some petroleum distillates. Some make the cube better, some worse. How can you tell if a lube is good before you buy it?


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